The fashion world eagerly awaited the debut of British designer Peter Hawkings as the creative director of Tom Ford. Hailed as the long-time right-hand man of Tom Ford himself, Hawkings took the reins after a successful 25-year career as a menswear director. His appointment came after Tom Ford sold his eponymous brand to Estee Lauder last year, stepping down from his designer duties but personally recommending Hawkings as his successor.
Fans of Tom Ford's signature high-octane, sex-appeal were not disappointed. The catwalk show showcased seductive silhouettes and razor-sharp tailoring, but with a fresh sensuality that prioritized elegance over provocation. Backless dresses, leather mini dresses, and daring jumpsuits with daring cut-outs all exuded sleek sophistication. Playfulness was injected through gold tasselled shorts and feathered skirts, adding a spontaneous and glamorous touch. The collection also featured lustrous velvet suits in deep dusty pinks, forest green, deep purple, and teal, a constant in the Tom Ford repertoire.
For Hawkings, this new chapter was both an act of continuity and a natural evolution. Having worked with Tom Ford for 25 years, his design ethos had become ingrained in him. Meeting Ford in 1998 after studying under renowned Professor Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins, Hawkings acknowledged Ford's role in helping him develop his own design codes and inspiring him for the future. While admitting that taking over the brand was initially daunting, Hawkings felt it was an incredible honor to receive the baton from Ford himself.
Based in London with his wife Whitney Bromberg, the CEO of Flowerbx, and their three children, Hawkings will continue designing menswear alongside womenswear. Bringing the two collections under one roof will create a newfound consistency that was lacking due to the logistical challenges of the long-distance collaboration with his predecessor. Hawkings believes that this integration is crucial in bridging any previous disconnect and bringing the Tom Ford man and woman closer together.
Hawkings also attributed his confidence in his new role to his wife, who is strong-minded and provides valuable input on his designs. He appreciates her honest opinions on what works and what doesn't, including how comfortable the garments are to wear. Hawkings drew inspiration from iconic Black supermodel Donyale Luna, who was a muse to Andy Warhol and Richard Avedon in the 1960s. He credited Bromberg, his rock, for her support and guidance throughout his career.
Kicking off the Hawkings era in Milan made perfect sense to him. It was the city where he began his career, working with Tom Ford at Gucci. Additionally, the exceptional quality and craftsmanship available in Italy align with Hawkings' perfectionist nature. As Milan Fashion Week welcomed other debuts, including Gucci's new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, it was clear that Hawkings' slot on the schedule affirmed not only Tom Ford's legacy but also his own vision for the future.
Reflecting on the overwhelming applause received after the show, Hawkings expressed his gratitude and enthusiasm backstage. For him, it was an incredibly enjoyable and exhilarating experience. He felt that this moment was the culmination of a lifetime of preparation and was thrilled to embark on this new chapter as the creative director of Tom Ford.